Extreme heat threatens Parmigiano Reggiano production, impacting 'king of cheeses'

Extreme heat is posing a significant threat to the production of authentic Parmigiano Reggiano, a cheese with over 800 years of history. The production of this renowned cheese is restricted to specific regions in Italy, where cows must be fed exclusively with locally grown grass and hay. However, drought conditions caused by extreme heat prevent grass from growing, directly impacting hay production. This scarcity of suitable feed jeopardizes the core identity of Parmigiano Reggiano, as Nicola Bertinelli, president of the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium, explains that the cheese's unique characteristics are derived from beneficial bacteria present in the local hay, which transfer to the milk and subsequently to the cheese. Furthermore, high temperatures cause cows to eat less and produce up to 10% less milk. The quality of the milk is also affected, not just chemically in terms of protein and fat content, but crucially, in its microbial composition. These beneficial bacteria are essential for fermenting milk components and developing the distinctive aromas and flavors of Parmigiano Reggiano. Producers are implementing cooling systems and fans to mitigate the heat, leading to increased production costs. Rising energy expenses also affect the aging warehouses, where cheese wheels mature for at least 12 months and undergo rigorous weekly quality inspections. The Parmigiano Reggiano industry is a major economic driver, generating an estimated 4.5 billion euros annually, supporting thousands of jobs, and boosting local economies.